HF Mobile Installation
HF mobile is a series of compromises. These may be minimized by selecting the appropriate equipment and proper installation. Some of these variables are dictated by your choice of vehicle. I drive a large SUV. Fortunately there is sufficient space for equipment and wiring. The truck has a high output alternator and upgraded battery, which were part of a cold weather option from the dealer.
Prior to the installation shown in this article, I ran HF mobile in a small 4 door sedan. It was a completely different experience, requiring a compact radio and small antenna. The radio was a Yaesu 857D, with Hamstick mono band antennas on a triple magnetic mount on the roof. The feed line was running out through the passenger window (creating noise and water leaks), and the mount was damaging the roof. I made contacts, but I was not enjoying it. I could only work the strongest stations, and the built in speaker was hard to hear. Carrying a selection of Hamsticks was a challenge, and I had to stop the car to change bands.
Based on those experiences, I knew what I wanted to do. First priority was a safe and clean installation, something presentable to my XYL and other passengers. I wanted to improve receive and transmit performance, and have easier band changes. Finally I wanted to remove the antenna at any given time, due to parking lots and other overhead obstructions.
OK, now on to the good stuff! What radio, which antenna? Radio choices were narrowed down to the Icom IC-7000, and the Kenwood TS-480 series. Both are excellent, with the IC-7000 boasting a large color display, 2M and 70cm, and powerful filters. In contrast the TS-480 has a rather plain display, and lacks VHF and UHF. The TS-480 is available as two models, the SAT version which includes a built in tuner, or the HX which eliminates the tuner and increases the output power from 100 to 200 watts. That might seem like a tough decision to make, but as you will see a built tuner is not required. I selected the Kenwood TS-480HX and it works very well for my application.
So how did this all go together? The first thing I addressed was power. A local shop http://www.installer.com/ ran 6 gauge stranded copper wire from the battery to the driver seat. The wires are fused at the battery. I terminated the power leads under the seat with 75 Amp Anderson Power Poles, http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/housings-contacts/ with 60 Amp fuses on both positive and negative leads. Next in line is a RIGrunner http://www.powerwerx.com/powerpole-power-distribution/ with fuses on each outlet. The wiring and power distribution fit nicely underneath the driver's seat, along with the TS-480HX and a Kenwood TM-V71A dual band radio.
To help the Tarheel work effectively, several flat braided wire straps bond the car sections together. These are on the hood and rear hatch, on the exhaust, and frame to body. The purpose of these straps is to help the truck to function as a single unit, since the truck is part of the antenna system. https://www.abrind.com/Products/Browse/4/0/0
The Tarheel is a screwdriver antenna, and uses a rocker switch for tuning control. I mounted the switch on the front of the center console, where my fingers naturally rest while driving. To change bands, the rocker is pressed, moving the antenna up or down to change the amount of exposed coil. The multi conductor cable for the rocker switch has a tap for 12 volts, and is routed with the coax under carpet and plastic trim. Both wires exit at the rear directly above the hitch.
Attached to the hitch is a Tarheel mount, model MT 3 FB. http://www.tarheelantennas.com/mounts The MT 3FB is a tilting mount that fits a standard 2" trailer hitch. The mount pivots back to allow the rear hatch to open. The antenna bolts to the mount's mast with a bracket and U bolts supplied with the antenna. Everything fits together very nicely, feeling quite stable and secure.
And now for the fun part, the radio! The main body of the radio is secured with bolts to a piece of MDF, which is bolted through the floor under the driver's seat. A wire runs from the radio, underneath the center console, and exits under the passenger seat. This wire provides power and data to the head unit. I fashioned a mount for the head unit from a small tripod ball head and an empty can of beans. The can fits securely in one of the cup holders. It does not move at all in use, but it can be quickly removed and hidden from view (and the Texas sun). The head unit sits in front of the center arm rest, and my right hand easily reaches the rocker switch and all of the controls on the head unit. The ball head allows the display to be tilted in any orientation, and the lighted display is easy to see at a glance.
